Mineko Iwasaki and the Real Memoirs of a Geisha

Did you know Memoirs of a Geisha is a stolen story?

For those of you here from the beginning, you know that most of my Substack is me being critical of something “not historically accurate”. Guess what? Today I’m back to my regular critical self! I took a break to talk about cowboys and the Muppets, but don’t worry! I’m just as critical as always. The first time I read Memoirs of a Geisha I LOVED it. I got it from my high school library. When I found the book for $3 at my local used book store I bought it. I read it somewhat recently and it was still good and engaging. However, being in college means I also have access to millions of books through the UC system. If UCSD doesn’t have the book I’m looking for, they’ll borrow it from another school. It’s pretty great. Anyway, after my most recent reading of Memoirs of a Geisha, I did some digging into books about geisha life. Nonfiction books. I also watched the movie, which could not have been worse. Seriously, it’s so bad. Today’s Substack is not about that however, it’s about what being a geisha actually means. There might be a bit about how Arthur Golden should’ve written a different book. I write these start to finish and don’t go back to reread, so I’m literally just guessing. I’m also bogged down by finishing my thesis within the next week so that’s awesome (sarcasm). I ran out of easier topics and I’m not ready to break down Sesame Street in yet another form. One show might just be my thesis torn apart. We just don’t know until the Friday before next week’s show. Ok enough chatting, let’s get to it.

The author of Memoirs of a Geisha, Arthur Golden, was born into a Jewish family in Tennessee (crazy combo I know) in 1956. He would get an art history degree, with a specialization in Japanese art, from Harvard University. Can you see where this might be going? He lived in both China and Japan for some unspecified amount of time before coming back to the US to get his masters in English. The book was written over six years. Based on living for the last 21 years with an author, this seems like longer than usual. Much of the story is based off of the life of a real geisha: Mineko Iwasaki. She only agreed to speak with Golden on the condition that her involvement is not disclosed and everything is confidential. Golden proceeded to include information that made Iwasaki’s involvement public. Iwasaki, of course, felt extremely betrayed by Golden’s lack of consideration. The book has so much of Iwasaki’s story that it’s close to being a biography. There’s a lot of parallels. This was a scandal for Iwasaki, and she lost friendships because of her involvement, but more on that later. She sued Golden in 2001 but would settle out of court in 2003.

Memoirs of a Geisha came out in 1997 and was a smashing success. It was on the New York Times bestseller list for two years. Many people loved it. Geishas hated it, and for rightful reasons. Golden did depict some parts of geisha life right, but he also lowered them to be glorified prostitutes, which they are not. Again, more on that later. Golden disrespected the geisha profession and didn’t even try to hide it. The book also really leans into Orientalism, which is perhaps why the book was so popular in America. I could spend more time talking about Golden’s version of events, but it isn’t worth either of our time. Instead, let’s move onto talking about actual geishas.

A brief note on sources: Mineko Iwasaki published a book of her own titled Giesha of Gion in 2012, which I have also read. It’s been a minute though. Unfortunately, I can’t get the book right now, so I’m pulling from a range of other sources to better explain geisha life.

The first question to be answered is what is a geisha really? Americans know very little about real geisha culture, as apparent from Golden. A geisha is simply a female performing artist who performs traditional Japanese music and dances. Many geishas play the shamisen, which is a long, thin, three-stringed, traditional, guitar-looking thing. They also perform tea ceremonies and play drinking games with their clients. They are extremely well mannered and know how to engage a variety of audiences. Historically, the geisha was considered to be a high-class entertainer. Girls would be given up by their parents to geisha houses (okiya/ochaya) to learn the art. After successfully becoming a geisha, she would pay back her debt to the house. Prior to becoming a full-fledged geisha, the girl would be a maiko, essentially meaning an apprentice geisha. Maiko and geishas also wear different outfits and makeup, both of which will be addressed in their own sections.

Geisha makeup is extremely unique. The process first starts with a wax base to protect the skin. Next, the eyebrows are glued down with a paste. Here is where the white makeup is applied. It’s usually a powder that can be mixed with water for easy application. A brush or sponge is used to smooth it out. A pink paste is then used for contouring. Geishas have either two or three lines drawn on their back depending on the occasion. Two lines are standard, but three is special. The skin at the nape of the neck is left unpainted. The geisha then applies red pigment around the eyes, black eyeliner, and mascara. Lipstick is applied last. For first year maiko, red is only applied to the lower lip. Lips are painted to be smaller than they really are. The entire process takes a while. Geishas and maiko also wear different hairstyles. Maiko use their own hair for complex styles while geisha often wear wigs made from human hair. Maiko typically visit the hairdresser once a week. They must keep their hair styled until their next visit. There’s a special pillow called a takamakura that prevents the hair from getting ruined. It does not look comfortable at all, but it’s probably worth it for the beautiful hair. Geisha and maiko add cloth and ornaments (bonten) into their hair depending on the event. Geisha do not use the decorated hairpins that maiko do. They usually stick to a simple comb. There are many different styles unique to both geishas and maiko, many of which have evolved throughout history.

A major part of the geisha is her kimono. Again, maiko and geishas wear different kimonos. Both switch between thick and thin kimonos depending on the weather. In colder months, a kimono with a thick silk outside and thin liner is worn. In the summer, a light silk kimono with no lining is worn. Kimonos also are worn with patterns matching the seasons. For example, from October to May, geishas might wear a kimono with chrysanthemums or maple leaves. From June to September, a kimono might have dragonflies or fireworks. Kimonos as a concept do not always have to be silk. When I went to Japan in 2016, I bought a navy cotton (yukata) kimono with a colorful, I think flower, pattern on it. It’s not very formal. Geisha kimonos, however, are very formal, hence being made of silk. On top of the kimono goes an obi, a large waistband tied into intricate designs. Maiko wear long-style (5-7 meters long) obis while geishas wear a shorter style. Geishas wear special socks called tabi that have a slit for their shoes, okobo or zori. Both are fancy sandals not unlike flip flops. They have decorated fans which are kept in the obi. The obi-jime is a smaller belt that is decorative, but also keeps the obi in place. Geishas carry very casual kimono bags made of cloth. Maiko typically wear more dramatic and colorful kimonos while geishas wear simpler designs. Both geishas and maiko wear expensive silk kimonos however. Maiko also wear red collars while geishas wear white collars. The maiko changes to a white collar after formally becoming a geisha.

Okiyas, geisha houses, double as both living spaces and bars. There is usually a house mother, many of whom have been geishas themselves, that keeps the house running. The okiya is responsible for training and scheduling geishas. Not all okiyas are equal, it depends on the geishas that live there and how well their training is. Geishas are not bound to their houses, and often do most of their work at parties. Okiyas also have large kimono collections; maiko and geishas often “borrow” their kimonos from the house. Geishas live and eat their meals in their respective okiya. Every resident is female. It is a completely female-run industry, which is pretty cool. When a geisha marries, they must retire. Men are absolutely not allowed in the okiya!

Golden likens the geishas in his story to prostitutes, which they truly are not. However, there is sometimes a sexual component to being a geisha. Maiko, like the characters in Golden’s book, go through a mizuage. Mizuage carries multiple meanings. For geishas like Iwasaki, a mizuage is not sexual, but rather a coming of age turn from maiko to geisha. Mizuage more commonly refers to a client paying a large sum of money to take a maiko’s virginity. The client would also give the maiko large gifts and improve their status. The practice is more commonly used for oirans, who are openly considered courtesans. Sexual mizuage was banned in Japan with the Anti-Prostitution Act of 1956. Geishas did not have a choice in the matter of their mizuage. This is perhaps where the western association of geishas as sex workers came from. However, geishas are prized for their entertainment abilities and talents. They are coveted for their beauty, manners, and skills, not sex. The stigma of geishas being prostitutes has never fully gone away. Iwasaki strongly criticizes the sexualization of the maiko in her memoir. It is unfortunate that a thing of such historical and artistic significance has been reduced to a prostitute in popular culture.

While geishas are situated across Japan, most are located in Kyoto. The Gion district has always been one of the most prestigious places for geishas. In Kyoto, geishas are called geikos. For the purpose of consistency, I use geisha as that is the more general, and recognized, term. Gion is like a well-preseved pre-war town. The buildings are low and charming. Tourists have become a rising problem in Gion, and many streets are now closed to visitors. I hate when bad people ruin something for everyone. It’s bad practice to take a picture of anyone without their consent, but geishas are often followed and harassed for photos. This law is a result of poor tourist behaviors, but I’m glad that geishas are getting more privacy.

Iwasaki, in her complaints against Golden, has highlighted that she has lost relationships because of his lack of confidentiality. This is because there is a very strict code of conduct within the geisha world. It is an extremely secretive profession, and geishas rarely disclose their stories. They have a strong code of silence when it comes to their clients.

Though geishas were much more popular before World War II, geishas can still be found in Japan. However, there has been a steep decline in geishas since the Prostitution Prevention Act was passed in 1956, though again many real prostitutes in Japan use the geisha gimmick on their clients. They are still prized for their talents, clothes, and appearance, but are much less prominent than they once were. Geishas are still considered to be high-class, worthwhile entertainment. They still exist and are absolutely stunning. I don’t really remember seeing geisha in Japan when I went, but I was also 12. I have a really good personal geisha story that you’ll get to hear if you tune in for my show Mondays at 11 am on KSDT. It’s too embarrassing to write out. You’ll just have to catch my live show! When I finish the book I’m reading, I’m going to check out Geisha by Liza Dalby. She’s one of, if not the only, white woman allowed to enter the inner geisha circle. I started reading her book at one point but I just got too busy. Unlike Golden, she actually studied and did field work IN Japan and put in effort into positively representing the people she spoke to. However, she was Golden’s consultant for the Memoirs of a Geisha movie so I won’t speak up for her too much. In my live show, I plan to talk more about geishas’ hairstyles and kimonos on top of all the stuff I wrote in this Substack. You should definitely tune in. If you don’t, I’ll see you next week with a new Substack!

1. “Kirigirisu” by Umekichi

2. “Soran Bush” by Umekichi

3. “Shamisen Boogie-Woogie” by Ichimaru

4. “White Breath” by T.M.Revolution

5. “Country Roads Take Me Home” by John Denver

6. “UFO” by PINK LADY

7. “Romance” by Hiromi Iwasaki

8. “Ohimanara Kitene” by Midori Satsuki

9. “Vacance de L’amour” by The Peanuts

10. “Yaoke No Scat" (Melody For a New Dawn” by Saori Yuki